Dog training fundamentals.

How dogs learn.

Raising a puppy for Guide Dogs is all about helping them learn good habits and feel confident in the world. Dogs are always learning, and we can guide this learning in positive ways.

There are two main ways dogs learn:

Associative learning (classical conditioning).

This means dogs connect one thing with another.

• Example: a food bowl or lead doesn’t mean anything at first. But after many times of seeing the bowl before food, or the lead before a walk, the pup learns what’s coming and gets excited.
• Your pup’s name works the same way. At first, it’s just a sound, but if it’s always followed by good things (food, play, walks), the pup will respond happily.

Practical tip: teaching your pup their name

• Say your pup’s name, then immediately give them a treat.
• Don’t wait for them to do anything, just reward them after saying their name.
• Repeat this several times, then mix up the timing. Soon your pup will look to you whenever they hear their name.

Counter conditioning.

Sometimes pups have a bad experience and develop fear (e.g. they’re scared of another dog or a loud bang).

• To help: pair the scary thing with something good, like food, play, or praise.
• Over time, the pup will start to feel positive instead of fearful.

Operant conditioning (learning from consequences).

This means dogs learn that their actions bring results.

• Behaviours that lead to good outcomes (treats, play, praise) will happen more often.
• Behaviours that lead to something unpleasant or to losing something they like will happen less often.

Reinforcement (encouraging good behaviour).

• Food is the easiest reward (primary reinforcer).
• Praise and pats also work, especially if paired with food at first so they gain value (secondary reinforcers).
• Life rewards (like going for a walk, sniffing, or play) can also be used. Example: pup sits at the door, the door opens, the walk begins.

Timing of rewards.

• When teaching something new: reward every time (continuous reinforcement).
• Once pup knows it well: reward randomly, like a lottery (intermittent reinforcement). This keeps them motivated.

Punishment (discouraging unwanted behaviour).

Guide Dogs uses the Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive (LIMA) approach. This means focusing on teaching the pup what to do rather than punishing mistakes.

• Positive punishment (adding something unpleasant, like a leash correction or shouting) is strongly discouraged as it can harm your pup’s learning and your bond with them. Please speak to your PDA for other strategies.
• Negative punishment (removing something the pup likes) can be useful.
  • Example: if your pup jumps on you during play, stop the game and walk away.
  • When they settle, play again. The pup learns that calm play keeps the fun going.

Key takeaways for Puppy Raisers.

• Dogs learn by making connections and by seeing what happens after certain actions.
• Focus on rewarding the behaviours you want to see more of.
• Use food, praise, pats, and life rewards to encourage learning.
• If a pup struggles or shows fear, pair the challenge with something positive.
• Avoid physical punishment. If needed, use short removal of attention (e.g. walk away).
• Always think: What do I want my pup to do instead? Then reward that.

This way, your pup learns with confidence, enjoys training, and grows into a reliable Guide Dog.

Using food as a reinforcer.

Food is one of the most powerful tools we can use to teach and encourage our pups. When used the right way, food helps pups learn quickly, stay motivated, and enjoy working with you.

The “yes!” marker.

• A marker tells your pup the exact moment they’ve done the right thing.
• At Guide Dogs, we use the word “yes!” in a happy, upbeat voice.
• The marker is always followed by a food reward. Over time, your pup learns that “yes!” means a treat is coming.
• This helps you reward your pup on time, even if it takes a moment for you to get the food out.

Tip: practice by saying “yes!” and immediately giving food, even if your pup hasn’t done anything yet. This teaches your pup the meaning of the word.

Why food works so well.

• Food is a natural reward. Dogs don’t need to learn to like it.
• Praise and pats are learned rewards. Over time, your pup learns they are good too, especially when paired with food.
• We use both together when raising pups.

Reward schedules.

• When teaching a new skill: reward your pup every time (continuous reinforcement).
• Once your pup knows it well: reward them sometimes, like a lottery (variable reinforcement). This keeps your pup motivated and eager.

Clean feeding: how to give food correctly

To avoid bad habits, always:

1. Keep the treat pouch on your right hip.
2. Pup stays on your left side.
3. When the pup does the right behaviour, say “yes!”
4. Calmly reach across your body and give the treat in front of the pup, while they stay in position.

Common mistakes to avoid.

• Pup moving in front (curling): happens if treats are given from the wrong position. Always feed straight in front of the pup.
• Showing food too early (bribing): if the pup sees the treat first, they work for the food, not for you. Keep food hidden until after the behaviour is finished.
• Feeding too soon: don’t reach for the food before the behaviour is complete, as this can distract or confuse the pup.

Golden rules:

• Feed across your body to stop curling.
• Feed only after the behaviour is complete.

Practice exercises.

• Without your pup: practice delivering food across your body to someone pretending to be the pup.
• With your pup: practice in the heel position. Reward sits and downs, making sure the pup stays straight.

Key takeaways.

• Food is a simple and effective way to teach your pup.
• Always pair “yes!” with food so your pup understands what earns a reward.
• Use both food and praise together.
• Reward every time for new skills, then switch to sometimes for known skills.
• Give food correctly to avoid bad habits.
• Remember: you get what you reinforce!

Using rewards beyond food.

Food is a great tool for teaching pups, but it’s not the only way to reward good behaviour. Puppies also learn through praise, pats and affection, play, and everyday opportunities (life rewards). Using a mix of these helps your pup stay motivated and builds a strong bond with you.

Praise.

• Use a happy, upbeat tone of voice (e.g. “good pup!”).
• Keep it short and positive.
• Pair it with food at first so your pup learns that praise is meaningful.
• Over time, your pup will respond to praise alone.

Pats and affection.

• Gentle pats on the chest, shoulder or behind the ears can be rewarding if your pup enjoys touch.
• Always watch your pup’s reaction, as not all dogs like the same kind of patting.
• Pair pats with food so your pup builds positive associations with physical affection.

Play.

• Games like tug, fetch, or chasing a toy can be powerful rewards.
• Use short, fun bursts of play after your pup gets something right.
• Keep play under control because the goal is still learning, not over-excitement.
• End the game while your pup is still enjoying it, so they look forward to it next time.

Life rewards (the Premack Principle).

Life rewards are everyday things your pup naturally enjoys. You can use these to encourage good behaviour:

• Walking through a door: reward for sitting politely first.
• Stopping at a curb: reward them by allowing them to cross the road.
• Sitting calmly before the lead is placed on the pup: reward your pup with going for a walk.
  The rule is: your pup earns the fun activity by doing the behaviour you want first.

Key takeaways.

• Mix food with other rewards (praise, pats, play, life rewards).
• Always reward the behaviour you want to see more of.
• Use a happy voice and genuine affection so your pup responds to your energy.
• Everyday activities can be powerful rewards if used consistently.

Ways to get a behaviour.

A very simple way to approach training is by following the sequence of:

a) cue the behaviour: do something to get the behaviour to happen, then reward the behaviour; and

b) fade whatever it is that you are doing to get the behaviour until the sequence is just: cue the behaviour then reward the behaviour.

Here are some different techniques that you can use to prompt a behaviour.

Luring.

What is luring?
Luring means using something your pup wants (usually food) to guide them into doing a behaviour. For example, holding a treat near your pup’s nose and moving it slowly so they follow it into a sit or down position.

Why use luring?
It’s a simple way to show your pup what you’d like them to do. Later, the food is phased out, and the hand movement alone becomes the signal (or “cue”) for the behaviour.

How to lure:

1. Hold a treat securely in your hand so your pup can see and smell it but not grab it.
2. Place your hand close to the pup’s nose, like a magnet.
3. Slowly move your hand in the direction you want the pup to move.
4. When the pup follows and does the behaviour (like sit), say “yes!” and then give them the treat.

Tips for success:

• Keep your hand movement slow and clear so your pup can follow.
• Start with food in your hand, then gradually reduce your pup’s reliance on it:
  • Do the same hand motion but without food in your hand, then reward from your pouch after the behaviour.
  • Make your hand motion smaller over time until it becomes the final signal.
  • If you’re in a new place or someone else is handling your pup, you may briefly reintroduce the lure.
  • As your pup improves, reward with food less often, but always give praise or pats.

Common skills taught with luring:

• Sit
• Down

Shaping.

What is shaping?

Shaping involves rewarding small steps that lead toward the final behaviour.

Why use shaping?

Shaping breaks bigger or more complex skills into smaller, easier wins for the pup. This helps keep the pup motivated and makes training a positive experience for pup and handler.

Tips for success:

• Start small
  • Reward even tiny steps towards the behaviour. Don’t wait for the ‘perfect’ version straight away.
• Be clear and quick
  • Mark the behaviour (e.g. with a “yes!”) the instant your pup does the step you’re looking for.
• Keep sessions short
  • Aim for just a few minutes at a time. Stop while your pup is still keen.
• Raise criteria gradually
  • Once your pup is reliably offering one step, wait for a slightly closer version of the behaviour before rewarding.
• Avoid big jumps
  • Don’t skip ahead too quickly; it can confuse or frustrate your pup.
• Reward often
  • At the start, reward generously to keep your pup motivated.
• Watch your pup’s feedback
  • If they seem confused or frustrated, go back to an easier step and reward that.
• End on success
  • Finish each session with a win (even a small one) and a reward.
• Use high-value rewards
  • Choose treats or rewards your pup really loves to keep them engaged.
• Be patient and positive
  • Shaping takes time. Celebrate small progress and keep it fun for your pup.

Capturing behaviour.

What is capturing behaviour?

Capturing behaviour is when we wait for the pup to naturally do a behaviour, then mark (“yes!”) and reward it.

Why use capturing behaviour?

Capturing behaviour builds on behaviours that the pup already knows and can be a fun way to teach the puppy new skills.

Tips for success:

• Keep your eyes open
  • Watch for natural behaviours you’d like to encourage (e.g. sitting calmly, lying down, looking at you).
• Be ready to mark quickly
  • Use your marker word (“yes!”) the instant the pup does the behaviour. Timing is everything.
• Reward right away
  • Follow your marker with a treat or praise so the pup connects the behaviour with something positive.
• Choose behaviours you want more of
  • Focus on useful behaviours like sitting to greet, lying calmly, or checking in with you, not ones you don’t want repeated.
• Carry rewards often
  • Have treats handy so you don’t miss opportunities when your pup offers a good behaviour.
• Reward calm and quiet moments
  • Don’t just reward the “big” behaviours. Capture calmness, settling, and good choices too.
• Repeat, repeat, repeat
  • The more often you catch and reward the behaviour, the quicker your pup learns to offer it on purpose.
• Add a cue later
  • Once your pup is reliably offering the behaviour, you can start adding a word or hand signal just before they do it.
• Be patient
  • Some behaviours may take a while to catch, so stay observant and consistent.
• Keep it positive
• Capturing should always feel like a game of “gotcha!” You’re catching good choices and celebrating them.

Physical moulding.

What is physical moulding?

Physical moulding is gently guiding the pup into the position you want.

Why use physical moulding?

Physical moulding is the prompt that we don’t use often in our training, as it is more intrusive than the other techniques we explore. That said, it can provide clarity for both Handler and dog and may be used if you are seeing too many mistakes and need to simplify things. Physical moulding gives the pup a clear idea of what the position feels like, but the pressure should always be gentle and minimal, and faded as soon as possible.

Tips for success:

• Be gentle
  • Use light guidance only and never force or push roughly. The pup should feel supported, not restrained.
• Keep it minimal
  • Use the least amount of physical help needed. Aim to guide, not “do it for them.”
• Pair with a cue
  • Say the word (e.g. “sit”) as you guide the pup, so they start to link the word with the action.
• Reward immediately
  • As soon as the pup is in the correct position, mark with “yes!” and give a treat or praise.
• Stay calm and positive
  • Keep your voice soft and encouraging. Physical moulding should never feel stressful for the pup.
• Use proper handling
  • Guide in ways that are comfortable for the pup’s body. For example, gently guide their bottom into a sit instead of pushing it hard.
• Fade help quickly
  • Stop using physical moulding as soon as the pup begins to understand the behaviour. Switch to luring, shaping, or capturing instead.
• Keep sessions short
  • Limit moulding to brief moments to prevent the pup from feeling overhandled.
• Reward calm compliance
  • If the pup resists or wriggles, pause, reset, and try again gently, but never force the position.
• Always end on success
  • Finish with a positive experience including lots of praise, treats, or a play break.

Releasing pressure (collar cue).

What is releasing pressure?

Releasing pressure is when we apply light pressure (e.g. on the collar or lead) and then immediately release it when the pup moves in the right direction.

Why use releasing pressure?

The pup learns how to respond to mild guidance. Always keep pressure light and release as soon as they respond.

Like physical moulding, using light pressure needs to be done carefully with good observation of the pup’s body language and response.

Example: A gentle upward pressure on the collar stops as soon as the pup sits.

Tips for success:

• Keep pressure light
  • Use only gentle, steady pressure that is just enough for the pup to feel. Never use a strong pull.
• Release immediately
  • The moment the pup moves in the right direction, release the pressure. The release is the reward.
• Pair with rewards
  • Follow up with praise, treats, or a pat so the pup learns that responding quickly is a good choice.
• Be clear and consistent
  • Always release pressure the instant the pup responds, so they understand what worked.
• Stay calm and patient
  • Apply pressure steadily, not in jerks or tugs. Training should feel calm and predictable for the pup.
• Add a cue
  • Say the word (for example, “sit”) as you apply pressure, so the pup links the cue with the behaviour.
• Practice simple skills first
  • Use this method for easy, clear behaviours like down or return to heel.
• Keep sessions short
  • Work in short bursts to keep the pup engaged and prevent frustration.
• Never force
  • If the pup resists or freezes, reduce the pressure, reset, and try again. Training should build confidence, not fear.
• Fade pressure over time
• As the pup learns, rely less on pressure and more on verbal cues, hand signals, or luring.

Progressing skills.

Starting a new skill.

• Keep sessions short: puppies learn best in a few minutes at a time. Aim for two to five minutes per session.
• Choose a quiet environment: start in a calm, low-distraction place so your puppy can focus on you.
• Have rewards ready: use food, praise, pats, or play to show your puppy they got it right.
• Break it down: teach the skill in small steps rather than all at once. Celebrate small successes.
• Use clear cues: review the Guide Dogs cue list and be consistent. Everyone in the household should use the same cue.
• Mark the right moment: use a happy “yes!” to tell the puppy the exact moment they did the right thing.
• Be patient: learning takes time. If the puppy doesn’t get it, go back a step or make it easier.
• End on success: finish with a step the puppy can do well, so they feel confident and happy.
• Practise indifferent places: once your puppy understands, try in slightly busier areas (e.g. backyard, then quiet street). Build distractions slowly.
• Stay positive: keep training fun and encouraging. Your puppy should look forward to learning with you.

Generalisation.

• Practise in new places: once your puppy understands the skill at home, try it in different rooms, then the backyard, then quiet streets, shops, and so on.
• Change who practices the skill: ask other family members or friends (following the same rules) to cue the skill, so your puppy learns to listen to more than one person.
• Add gentle distractions: start with small distractions (like a toy on the floor) and build up to bigger ones (like people walking past). Always make it easier again if the puppy struggles.
• Mix up your position: practise while you’re sitting, standing, or walking, so the puppy doesn’t only expect one “picture.”
• Vary the environment gradually: move from quiet to slightly busier areas, so your puppy learns to focus in many situations without being overwhelmed.
• Use the same cue: keep your word or signal the same everywhere you go. Consistency helps your puppy understand.
• Reward generously at first: give extra praise and treats when the puppy manages the skill in a new place, as it’s harder for them.
• Be patient: remember that doing the same skill in a new setting feels like “starting over” for many puppies.
• Go back a step if needed: if the puppy struggles, make it easier (e.g. fewer distractions, closer distance) and rebuild from there.
• Keep it positive: each new success builds confidence. Training should feel like a game, not a test.

The Three Ds.

The 3Ds are simple ways to make training gradually more challenging for your pup.

• Duration: how long your pup can hold a skill (e.g. staying in a sit). Start short and build up slowly.
• Distraction: what’s happening around your pup. Begin with calm, low distractions and work up to busier environments.
• Distance: how far you are from your pup while they hold the skill. Start close, then slowly increase space.

Why use the Three Ds.

Using the 3 Ds helps your pup:

• Build self-control and focus.
• Learn to succeed in different places and situations.
• Gain confidence, which is important for future Guide Dog work.

Tips for success:

• Work on one ‘D’ at a time when starting out.
• Only combine two or three Ds once your pup is confident.
• Keep training short, fun, and positive.
• Vary your practice so it doesn’t become predictable.
• If your pup struggles, go back a step (e.g. shorten the time, reduce the distraction, or move closer).
• Always make sure your pup understands the skill first before adding difficulty.