Managing problem behaviours effectively.

Raising a Guide Dog pup is fun and rewarding, but like all young dogs, pups will sometimes rehearse behaviours that are inconvenient, frustrating, or hard to live with. The goal is not to punish these behaviours, but to understand why they are happening and guide the pup toward better choices. Using a LIMA (Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive) approach means we focus first on prevention, management, teaching alternative behaviours, and reinforcing success. In practice, this means setting the pup up well, reducing opportunities to rehearse unwanted behaviour, and consistently showing them what to do instead.

When problem behaviours show up, ask yourself: What is the pup getting from this behaviour? Common reasons include teething, excitement, frustration, fatigue, stress, boredom, access to something rewarding, or simply not yet having the skills to cope. If a pup is over-aroused, worried, or unable to respond, the best first step is usually to make things easier rather than push through. Increase distance, lower expectations, use the environment to help, and return to training when the pup is back in a calm, thinking state.

General LIMA principles for problem behaviour: Prevent rehearsal where possible, reinforce behaviours you want more of, teach clear alternatives, and avoid yelling, leash corrections, physical punishment, or intimidation. If you need to interrupt behaviour, do so calmly and safely, then redirect the pup to something appropriate and achievable. If a behaviour is becoming frequent, intense, or emotionally charged, speak with your PDA early so a plan can be adjusted before the pattern becomes stronger.

Puppy mouthing.

What it looks like:

Puppy mouthing includes nipping, chewing, or grabbing hands, clothing, or skin, often during play, excitement, frustration, or tiredness. Mouthing is normal pup behaviour, especially during teething, but it still needs gentle guidance so the pup learns how to interact safely and appropriately.

Prevention:

• Provide plenty of appropriate chew items and rotate them to keep them interesting.
• Build in rest breaks. Many pups mouth more when they are tired or over-aroused.
• Use calm, structured play and avoid rough games with hands, sleeves, or clothing.
• Capture and reward calm interaction, soft mouth behaviour, and choosing toys over skin or clothes.

What to do if it happens:

• Stay calm and gently redirect the pup onto an appropriate toy or chew.
• If the pup is too worked up to redirect, calmly pause the interaction by becoming still or stepping away for a few seconds.
• Re-engage once the pup is calmer and reinforce gentle behaviour straight away.
• If mouthing increases, consider whether the pup needs sleep, a toilet break, a chew, or a quieter activity.

Chewing furniture.

What it looks like:

Chewing on table legs, chairs, skirting boards, or other household items. Chewing is a normal behaviour, especially during teething, so the goal is to direct it onto safe, appropriate items rather than simply trying to stop chewing altogether.

Prevention:

• Puppy-proof the environment and block access to high-risk or high-value items.
• Offer a variety of safe chew options and observe what textures your pup prefers.
• Rotate toys and chews to keep them novel and rewarding.
• Supervise closely during teething periods and after exciting activity, when chewing often increases.

What to do if it happens:

• Calmly interrupt if needed and redirect the pup to an appropriate chew item.
• Reinforce the pup for choosing and staying with the correct item.
• If the pup repeatedly returns to furniture, make the setup easier by increasing management and reducing access.
• Consider whether the pup needs more chewing opportunities, enrichment, or rest.

Counter-surfing.

What it looks like:

Jumping up to reach food or objects on benches, tables, or counters. Counter-surfing is highly self-reinforcing because the environment often pays the pup well for trying.

Prevention:

• Keep benches and tables clear. Prevention is essential.
• Teach and reward an alternative behaviour such as staying behind the kitchen boundary, going to bed, or sitting with four paws on the floor.
• Use barriers, tethers, or supervision where needed so the pup does not rehearse the behaviour.
• Set up easy practice opportunities where the pup can succeed around food at a lower level of difficulty.

What to do if it happens:

• Calmly block access or guide the pup away without scolding.
• Prompt and reward an alternative behaviour such as “on your bed”, “sit”, or waiting outside the kitchen boundary.
• Review the environment. If the pup got something rewarding, management needs to be tightened.
• Practise success in low-distraction setups before expecting reliability around real food.

Stealing items and playing keep-away.

What it looks like:

The pup grabs socks, shoes, or other objects and runs away, often turning it into a game of keep-away. This behaviour is common because being chased is fun and stolen items can be highly rewarding.

Prevention:

• Keep tempting household items out of reach while the pup is learning.
• Teach “give” and “swap” using toys and food in calm, easy practice sessions.
• Reinforce the pup for bringing items to you and releasing them.
• Provide appropriate outlets for carrying, chewing, and play.

What to do if it happens:

• Avoid chasing, grabbing, or turning it into a tug-of-war over the item.
• Use a calm voice and offer a trade with food, a toy, or another activity.
• Reward generously when the pup releases the item or comes toward you.
• If this happens often, revisit management and practise “give” more regularly in easy settings.

Jumping on people.

What it looks like:

The pup jumps up to greet people, usually because they are excited and seeking social interaction. Jumping is often unintentionally reinforced when people talk to, touch, or look at the pup while they are up.

Prevention:

• Teach and reinforce a preferred greeting behaviour such as sitting or standing calmly with four paws on the floor.
• Coach visitors in advance so they only greet when the pup is calm.
• Practise greetings in low-key setups before expecting the pup to cope in more exciting situations.
• Use distance, lead support, or a bed station if the pup is too excited to succeed.

What to do if it happens:

• If the pup jumps, calmly remove attention by turning away or having the person step back.
• As soon as all four paws are on the floor, mark the moment and reward with attention, food, or the chance to say hello.
• Keep repetitions short and set the puppy up to get it right quickly.
• If the pup is too aroused to think, create more space and try again when calmer.

Excessive pulling on leash.

What it looks like:

The pup pulls strongly ahead on walks, making the lead tight. Pulling may happen because the environment is exciting, the pup is moving too quickly for their skill level, or walking forward has become reinforcing.

Prevention:

• Start loose-lead practice in low-distraction environments where the pup can succeed.
• Reinforce frequently for walking near you, checking in, and creating slack in the lead.
• Use short, achievable sessions and vary direction to keep the puppy connected.
• Consider whether the pup needs some decompression opportunities as well as training walks.

What to do if it happens:

• When the lead goes tight, pause or change direction rather than pulling back.
• Reinforce even small moments of slack lead and reorientation toward you.
• If the environment is too difficult, reduce distractions or increase distance from them.
• Aim for many short successes rather than long walks where the pup rehearses pulling.

Lunging at other dogs.

What it looks like:

The pup suddenly pulls, jumps, barks, or fixates on another dog. This may be driven by excitement, frustration, uncertainty, or over-arousal, so the pup’s body language and emotional state matter.

Prevention:

• Work at a distance where the pup can still respond and stay in a thinking state.
• Reinforce noticing the other dog and then checking back in with you.
• Use gradual exposure and only reduce distance when the pup is consistently calm.
• Keep sessions short and finish before the pup becomes overwhelmed.

What to do if it happens:

• Increase distance calmly and promptly. Distance is often the most helpful tool.
• Avoid scolding, jerking the lead, or forcing the pup to stay close to the trigger.
• Once the pup can think again, reinforce calm behaviour, check-ins, or moving with you.
• If this is happening regularly, pause progression and speak with your PDA about a structured training plan.

Propping or baulking behaviour.

What it looks like:

The pup stops walking, plants themselves, sits, or lies down and does not want to move forward. This can happen because of uncertainty, fatigue, confusion, environmental worry, or because the pup has simply had enough.

Prevention:

• Keep outings short, positive, and appropriate for the pup’s age and experience.
• Build confidence gradually in new environments and watch for early signs of hesitation.
• Use encouragement, choice, and reinforcement rather than pressure.
• Be mindful of heat, fatigue, slippery surfaces, and overwhelming environments.

What to do if it happens:

• Pause and assess why the pup may be stopping before trying to move on.
• Use a cheerful voice, food, play, or movement away and back to encourage re-engagement.
• Avoid dragging, pulling, or escalating pressure, as this can add stress and reduce confidence.
• If needed, shorten the session, retreat to an easier point, or end on a small success.

Excessive barking.

What it looks like:

The pup barks repeatedly, often because they want attention, are over-excited, frustrated, alerting to something, or are finding it hard to settle. Barking is information, so it helps to look at what is driving it rather than focusing only on the noise.

Prevention:

• Make sure the pup’s needs are being met, such as sleep, toileting, chewing, enrichment, exercise, and social connection.
• Reinforce calm, quiet behaviour before barking starts, especially around common triggers.
• Teach useful alternatives such as going to bed, chewing, settling with a food toy, or checking in.
• Avoid accidentally rewarding barking with immediate attention, access, or activity.

What to do if it happens:

• Stay calm and avoid shouting over the barking.
• Wait for even a brief pause, then reinforce quiet and redirect the puppy to something appropriate.
• If barking is linked to arousal or frustration, help the pup calm down rather than asking for too much.
• If barking is frequent or worsening, look for patterns and discuss them with your PDA.

Key points to remember.

• Prevention and management are often the most effective first steps. Set the pup up to succeed.
• Reward the behaviours you want more of and teach the pup what to do instead.
• If the pup is over-aroused, worried, tired, or unable to respond, make things easier before asking for more.
• Avoid punishment, intimidation, or physical corrections. These can damage trust and increase stress.
• Stay calm, consistent, and proactive, and speak with your PDA early if a behaviour is persisting or escalating.

When to contact your PDA.

Please reach out to your PDA if a behaviour is becoming more frequent, more intense, harder to interrupt, or is starting to affect the pup’s welfare, confidence, or day-to-day life. It is especially important to seek support if your pup is showing ongoing barking, lunging, freezing, avoidance, guarding, repeated difficulty settling, or if you are feeling unsure about what to do next. Early support can help prevent rehearsal, keep training on track, and ensure the plan stays safe, effective, and consistent with a LIMA approach.