Laying the foundation for success.

Before your puppy arrives, please ensure that you have completed the Puppy Placement module(opens in new tab).

Puppy proofing your home.

Puppy proofing your home is a safety measure which should be undertaken before your pup arrives. It involves preventing the pup’s access to items that could be harmful, are fragile or particularly valuable. Remember to puppy proof your car as well, for those times when your pup is a passenger.

Tip: during the periods when you’re available to supervise and train the pup, safe non-puppy items (e.g. shoes, garbage) should be left in place so you can teach the pup to leave common household items alone.

What does a puppy-proofed home and yard look like?

Items that may be dangerous to the pup or valuable to the owner are secured out of the pup’s reach. The puppy has access to fresh water and appropriate toys. The pup is prevented from accessing areas of the home or yard that are not suitable for a pup.

Why puppy proof your home?

Puppy proofing your home creates a safe environment for the pup and protects items of value to the owner. As per the Puppy Raising Agreement, Guide Dogs NSW/ACT will not be held liable for damage caused by the pup. Puppies naturally explore things with their mouths and chewing is a normal part of development. The best way to guard against damage to property or valued items is prevention, so keep things out of reach that may be attractive to the puppy and use barriers such as doors, gates, and baby gates to prevent the puppy accessing areas where they could come to harm or damage property.

How to puppy proof your home:

• Guide Dogs NSW/ACT requires removal of any rat and snail baits from your home and property. These can be fatal to dogs.
• Never leave your pup tethered while unattended.
• Use barricades or baby gates to prevent access to dangers in rooms or storage spaces.
• Move out of reach items that could be dangerous to the pup, including:
  • Poisonous products such as chemicals, cleaning products, mothballs, insecticides, and fertilisers. Anti-freeze is highly toxic.
  • Small ingestible items such as toys, batteries, coins and magnets.
  • Medications, both over the counter and prescription.
  • Anything containing Xylitol such as sugar free candies and gum, or toothpaste.
  • Any foods that are toxic to dogs, e.g. chocolate, grapes, onion, macadamia nuts, avocado (a full list can be found in Puppy Central).
  • Candles, especially while burning.
  • Electrical cords from appliances, televisions, computers, etc.
  • Plants (indoors and outdoors), especially if they are poisonous or toxic to dogs.
  • Close toilets, especially those with automated cleaner dispensers.
• Ensure safe interactions with other pets:
  • Cats with claws can scratch a pup’s eyes and cause permanent damage. Closely monitor interactions and provide the cat with a safe place to escape.
  • Keep birds, rodents, and other small pets safely caged until you are sure the pup will engage with them politely and calmly. Never leave the pup unsupervised with these animals when they are out of their enclosures.
  • Cat litter, dog food bags and/or containers, as well as other pets’ food, need to be out of reach or in a room that the pup cannot access.

If your pup does get into something hazardous, immediately contact the Guide Dogs Centre during business hours, or a Guide Dogs NSW/ACT approved Veterinary Hospital outside of business hours.

Key points.

• Puppy proof your home before your pup arrives. It may help to get down to ‘puppy eye-level’ to see any potential hazards.
• Continue to monitor your pup when they arrive as they will inevitably discover something that you have missed.

Establishing routines.

When the pup has arrived home with you, your focus for the first one to two weeks should be on establishing predictable routines to help the pup become confident in your household. Establishing a predictable routine lays a good foundation to teaching good feeding, toileting and sleeping habits.

Once a solid foundation is established and the puppy has grown a bit, and you know them better, you can be more flexible with routines to help the puppy become adaptable. However, maintaining consistency in the beginning will help the puppy understand what is expected of them.

Feeding.

What does the feeding routine look like?

The pup’s recommended feeding schedule, including quantities and time of day can be found in the Puppy Raising Manual. The feeding schedule will change slightly as the pup grows, but when they first arrive home, until around six months old, the pup will be fed three times per day.

• Prepare the pup’s feed by dispensing the required amount of kibble into the pup’s food bowl.
• When the pup sits, calmly lower the food bowl to the ground.
• Straighten back to your full height and release the puppy to eat by saying the cue; “free” and gesturing to the food bowl.
• If the pup pops up out of the sit as you lower the food bowl, straighten back up and start the process again.

Why is the feeding routine important?

The feeding routine provides an opportunity to reinforce the “sit” skill and to practice some self-control. This helps prevent behaviours that might occur around feeding time such as pawing, jumping, whining and barking. These undesirable behaviours can make mealtime unpleasant and can also pose a risk for the Puppy Raiser, and for a person with low vision or blindness who may one day have this puppy as their Guide Dog.

How to teach the feeding routine:

1. Wait for the puppy to sit: pick up the food bowl and wait for your pup to offer a sit position on their own.
2. Lower the bowl: once your pup sits, calmly lower the food bowl while they hold the sit position for one to two seconds. If they pop out of the sit, straighten up (keeping the bowl in your hand), wait for them to sit again, and then lower the bowl more quickly so they can succeed at holding the sit position.
3. Release cue: as the bowl touches the floor, say “free” to release the pup from their sit.
4. Increase duration: as your pup develops better self-control; gradually increase the time you wait before lowering the bowl to the floor and saying “free.”
5. Maintain sit: progress to having the pup maintain their sit once the food bowl is placed on the floor.
6. Build duration: focus on building duration to approximately 10 seconds with the bowl on the floor before releasing them to eat.
7. Other skills: as your pup shows good self-control, ask them to work for their food bowl using other learned skills (e.g. “down”, or “up-stand”).
8. After eating: once the pup finishes eating, remove the bowl. Avoid allowing the pup to play with or carry the food (or water) bowl.

Note: interactions like hands in the bowl, taking the bowl away prematurely, or allowing other animals near the pup while eating can lead to food guarding behaviours. Strictly avoiding these activities helps the pup build a sense of security around food.

When your pup can sit calmly and patiently as the food bowl is lowered to the floor, and they maintain that sit position until released to eat, you’re doing a great job!

When teaching your pup food bowl manners, you might encounter some challenges. Here are some problem-solving strategies:

1. Excitement: if your pup jumps, whines, barks, or paws at you or the counter during meal preparation, their excitement may disrupt the learning process.
2. Wait quietly: give your pup a moment to settle on their own. Sometimes, they’ll regain self-control without intervention.
3. Decrease duration: kneel next to your pup to lower the food bowl more quickly. This reduces the time they need to maintain the sit position.
4. Increase distance: place the bowl on the counter and allow your pup to settle before retrying. Gradually decrease the distance over time.
5. Calm sit: wait until your pup is sitting calmly before lowering the food bowl to the floor.

Access to water.

The pup must always have fresh water available, unless advised by a veterinarian or the pup is in their sleeping quarters.

Ensure that the pup has access to water whether inside or outside. Clean the water bowl and fill up with fresh water daily.

Toileting.

What does a good toileting routine look like?

A good routine means:

• You can predict your pup’s toileting needs.
• You notice the pup’s signals (e.g. restlessness, sniffing, circling, whining, heading to the door).
• The pup toilets outside, both on and off leash, when given the cue “quick quick”.
• The pup toilets before a walk and stays clean while walking.

Building this routine takes patience, consistency, and close supervision.

Why is it important?

• Prevents accidents indoors and reduces stress for everyone.
• Essential for Guide Dogs who must stay clean when working in harness and in public spaces.

How to build a routine.

• In the early weeks, offer frequent toileting breaks, as puppies eliminate often.
• Take the pup out every hour when awake and playing.
• Always take the pup out:
  • First thing in the morning.
  • After waking from a nap.
  • Shortly after eating or drinking (may need multiple trips over 30 to 60 minutes).
  • During and after play.
  • Just before bedtime.
• Keep feeding times and toileting breaks consistent until reliable.
• Record toileting on a visible schedule (time, success, and any concerns like soft stool or straining).

Problem solving.

• Accidents happen: clean up without scolding. Punishment after the fact doesn’t work.
• If you catch the pup mid-accident, take them outside immediately.
• Adjust the schedule if accidents occur at certain times or after certain activities.
• Supervise closely and keep the pup with you or in a crate with toys if you’re busy.
• Ensure the pup fully toilets outside; give plenty of time as they can be distracted.
• If the pup doesn’t toilet outside, bring them in on lead or crate briefly, then try again.

If your pup was reliable but starts having accidents:

• Possible urinary tract infection (UTI): contact your PDA. Watch for:
  • Straining to urinate.
  • Frequent small urinations.
  • Urinating at night or in the crate when previously clean.
• Always provide free access to water. Restricting water can cause over-drinking and more accidents. (Exception: remove water only when crated or sleeping overnight, unless it’s hot or the pup has medical needs.)

Watch the video: Toileting procedure.(opens in new tab) 

Sleeping.

Initially, the young pup will sleep for 16 to 18 hours a day so it’s important to make a pup’s sleeping quarters feel safe and comfortable.

The puppy’s sleeping quarters should be a safe area, free from hazards where the pup can be left alone. When preparing and using sleeping areas, the following considerations should be made:

Location: use the laundry or a bathroom (not frequently used) as the pup’s sleeping quarters. These areas are tiled for easy cleaning and provide a quiet resting place.

If you do not have a suitable bathroom, laundry or other secure area you may sleep the puppy in a large crate (provided), either in the bedroom or appropriate area of the house. Enclosing the crate with a puppy pen creates a safe, secure and relaxing place for the pup to sleep or rest.

Safety: remove chemicals, cords, and cat litter from the sleeping quarters.

Ventilation: ensure good ventilation without drafts.

Bedding: provide comfortable bedding.

Water: remove water bowls after toileting, unless it’s very hot or the pup is under veterinary care.

Open door: leave the room door open and use a baby gate to prevent full enclosure.

Separate pets: if you have other pets, consider sleeping them separately to build the pup’s confidence and independence.

Using the pup’s sleeping quarters:

Exercise: ensure your pup has had enough exercise before using the sleeping quarters.

Toileting: ensure the pup has toileted before placing them in the sleeping quarters.

Guiding to bed: lead your pup to the sleeping quarters and place some kibble on the bed while they watch. This encourages them to go onto their bed.

Cue: say “on your bed,” and praise your pup as they move onto the bed. Close the gate or barrier and let them rest.

Returning: when you return, your pup should remain calm and not vocalise or jump up. Approach the gate when they’re relaxed. You can cue them to sit and release them with “free.”

You’ll know you’re on track when your pup remains quiet in their sleeping quarters and does not exhibit signs of frustration such as whining, barking, pawing, panting, shifting positions often, or standing for a prolonged period.

If your pup vocalises in the first few days in their sleeping quarters:

• After 10 minutes, enter the area.
• Offer tactile praise and verbal “shooshing” to comfort the pup.
• Once settled, leave.
• If vocalising resumes, repeat.
• Over time, vocalising should decrease as the pup gets used to the surroundings.
• Consider leaving a radio or TV on for background noise.
• If no improvement after one week, contact your PDA.

If you experience problems after the first week:

• Check if the pup needs to eliminate and take them out for a quick break.
• Practice shorter times in the area to help the pup learn self-control during comings and goings.
• Consider leaving a chew toy like a Nylabone™ or Kong™ with the pup.

If your pup eliminates in their sleeping quarters:

• Ensure your pup has eliminated before going into their sleeping quarters.
• Avoid feeding your pup a main meal immediately before bedtime. Give them time to process food and eliminate before overnight rest (e.g. ensure the pup is fed at least two hours before bedtime).
• Use appropriate cleaning products for accidents. Avoid ammonia-based products to prevent marking behaviour.
• Don’t leave your pup in the area too long. Stick to their toilet training schedule during the day.
• If leaving the house during the day, consider leaving the pup in the yard.

The key points for establishing and using sleeping quarters successfully are:

• Environment: make the sleeping quarters safe and inviting.
• Toilet: ensure the pup eliminates before going in.
• Usage: use when leaving the house or for extended unsupervised time (like overnight). Use a crate for shorter periods.

Release: ask the pup to “sit,” open the gate, and say “free.”

If the pup’s sleeping quarters are a crate, ensure you have a small, enclosed safe space (for example, a play pen) that the pup can be left in at times during the day, and be left alone in for short periods of time.

Leaving the pup alone

The pup also needs to become familiar when you leave the house and come back. This will help reduce the pup’s anxiety when it comes time for you to leave.

Why is it important for the pup to learn to be left alone?

Teaching a puppy that it is okay to be left alone is important for their emotional development, long-term wellbeing, and ability to cope with normal life. Proactively teaching a puppy that it is okay to be left alone helps:

1. Prevent separation related anxiety and distress.

Puppies are not born knowing how to cope with being alone. Without gentle, gradual learning, many start to panic and vocalise. They may exhibit destructive behaviour or toileting issues. Exposing the puppy to alone time early helps them learn that separation is safe, temporary, and predictable, reducing the risk of separation anxiety later in life.

2. Builds emotional resilience and independence.

Learning to be independent and relaxed without constant human presence helps puppies develop confidence and coping skills. This resilience supports better behaviour not only at home, but also at the vet, at the Guide Dogs Centre or when staying with others.

3. Supports a sustainable human-dog relationship.

Most puppies will need to be left alone at times due to work, errands, or emergencies. Teaching the pup that alone time is okay allows guardians to meet their own needs without guilt or stress, which in turn supports consistent, calm care for the puppy.

Teaching a puppy to be comfortable alone is not about ignoring them or forcing independence. It is about kindly and gradually teaching a life skill that protects their welfare, reduces fear, and helps them thrive in the real world.

How to teach the puppy to be left alone:

1. Use gradual, planned alone time training.

Teach independence in small, manageable steps so the puppy never feels overwhelmed. Start by leaving them alone for just seconds, then minutes, and slowly increase the duration. Return while the puppy is still calm so being alone predicts safety and success, not distress.

2. Create positive associations with leaving.

Pair your absence with high value, long-lasting rewards (e.g. food puzzles, lick mats, stuffed Kongs). These items should appear only when you leave, teaching the puppy that departures reliably bring good things.

3. Set the puppy up for calm success.

Meet the puppy’s physical and emotional needs first like toileting, enrichment, exercise, and rest so they are relaxed before separation. A predictable routine and a safe, comfortable space (a secure, puppy‑proofed area) help build confidence and reduce anxiety.

Progress at the puppy’s pace. If distress occurs, shorten absences rather than pushing through them. Calm behaviour earns reinforcement; fear is never punished.

Establishing boundaries.

It’s okay to establish some boundaries in the home. Consistency and clarity are key. If you are consistent from day one, the puppy will experience less frustration and will pick up on rules quicker.

Access to rooms and boundaries in the home.

There may be some rooms in your home that are off limits, such as bedrooms or children’s playrooms. Set up the environment for success by keeping doors closed or installing barriers such as baby gates to prevent access.

The kitchen should be out-of-bounds for the puppy. If there is not a clear boundary (e.g. in an open-plan kitchen), create the boundary by putting a line of masking tape on the floor where the boundary would be. Teach the puppy to stay out of the kitchen by rewarding them when they are on the other side of the boundary, and asking them to sit, lay down and stay outside of the boundary when you enter the kitchen. If the puppy follows you into the kitchen, simply lure or call them out and reinforce the puppy outside of the kitchen boundary.

When preparing meals, avoid letting the puppy becoming a constant presence under your feet. Call them out of the kitchen and onto their bed, then ask them to lay down and stay. Be consistent with this when the pup is young to build good habits as they get older.

Access to furniture.

Guide Dog puppies are not allowed on furniture such as your lounge or bed. Whilst it may be tempting to invite the puppy to share your lounge or bed, it can be a very hard habit to break and may not suit their eventual Handler or be appropriate for a Guide Dog in certain settings.

Rather than invite the puppy up onto your furniture, take it as an opportunity to get down to ground level with them. Pull up a cushion and enjoy your pats and cuddles at ground level.

If the puppy does jump up on furniture, consistently and calmly lure them back down and place them in a sit or down position on the floor. If you are consistent, the pup will experience less frustration (and you will have more success teaching the puppy to not jump on furniture).

Access to household items.

A Guide Dog puppy needs to learn to live in a normal household environment that includes items such as shoes on the floor, bins and toys, but a young puppy can get into everything. Here are some steps you can take to help minimise the risk to the puppy and your household items, while also teaching the puppy to live alongside these common household items.

Manage the environment.

• Remove and keep out of reach household items such as shoes, toys, jewellery etc.
• Ensure that bins are closed, and/or are in a cupboard and not accessible to the pup.
• Remove items that are dangerous for the pup, such as poisons, chemicals, and choke hazards.

Engaged supervision.

• Start to leave non-dangerous items out and in reach during periods where you are actively able to supervise the pup.
• If the pup makes a move to pick up an item it shouldn’t, calmly redirect them to another behaviour.
• If the pup manages to pick up a household item, try not to chase the puppy or yell. Calmly call the pup and trade for an item of higher value to them, such as a piece of kibble or favourite toy.
• Practice the “give” cue (in the skills section).
• Revert to managing the environment if the pup is not ready for engaged supervision.

“Non-engaged” supervision.

• Leave out non-dangerous household items when you are home and able to semi-supervise the pup or respond quickly if the pup picks up something it is not supposed to.

Leaving the pup alone.

• As the pup gets older, you build trust and get to know the puppy and learn what household items can be left unattended and what cannot.
• Dangerous items such as poisons and choke-hazards should never be left unattended with the pup.
• If leaving household items unattended, start with short durations so you can assess the pup’s ability to be left alone with common household items accessible.